![whirlpool hops beersmith whirlpool hops beersmith](https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/2224302/42756522-e3805056-88d2-11e8-873d-d50ddf24f10c.png)
To those of you who buy hops in bulk, how are you storing them? I have started to look into buying hops online, in either 8oz to 1 pound packages, but it doesn't make sense to do that without a vacuum sealer, does it? I don't own a vacuum sealer. Nice! So are you going to use them in the whirlpool, or save them for dry hopping? If it turns out more of the hop stand flavour comes through than the study indicates, Centennial has quite an acceptable flavour to me. I think I will start by experimenting with using Centennial for my APA hop stands, as my dry hop additions are small. As mentioned before, only β-myrcene has been found in the beers (varieties Saaz, Simcoe, Sorachi Ace and Tettnanger)." Note that myrcene is another compound in the monoterpene hydrocarbon group. The authors say, "Interestingly, hardly any monoterpene hydrocarbon was detected in the late hopped beers. If I am reading the charts right, it is gone even before fermentation: It seems alpha and beta pinene (part of the monoterpene hydrocarbons group) don't make it through the hop stand. Using Columbus instead of Centennial would save me $3.30, which is less I have never used Columbus, partly out of fear of pine, but maybe my fear is misplaced? According to this study, which looked at 15 different hop varieties (including Columbus) and sampled them at various stages. At 8g/L, using Columbus instead of Simcoe could save me $13.80, which would be worth it to me. Unlike where Micheal Tonsmeire lives, Simcoe is very expensive for me, in fact it is the most expensive pelleted hop my LHBS carries, at $3.79 per ounce, which is more than twice as much as Columbus.
![whirlpool hops beersmith whirlpool hops beersmith](https://i.gr-assets.com/images/S/compressed.photo.goodreads.com/books/1385246005i/18915676._UY475_SS475_.jpg)
Columbus is cheap at my LHBS, just $1.69 per ounce. Great post, thank you, you got my mind spinning right now thinking up combos to Rat Cost varies from place to place.
![whirlpool hops beersmith whirlpool hops beersmith](https://alchemyoverlord.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/ibu9.png)
![whirlpool hops beersmith whirlpool hops beersmith](https://i2.wp.com/img.android-apk.org/imgs/3/6/0/360022acd846012d121517491948cad1_screen.png)
If we all followed current thinking we would never have NEIPAS with 60 IBUS from whirlpool additions. Trust your heart and knowledge and experiment a little. The biggest thing I learned from brewing is to push the limits no matter what the current thinking is. My buddy also noticed the difference but I had to key him on the aroma and flavour to get him to pick it up. The aroma and flavours were almost identical but slightly different for the bottle, not as intense or bright as the keg. I could tell the bottled version but only because I had been drinking the keg for a 10 days before the bottles. I do prefer the keg version and totally think that secondary fermentation in the bottle isn't the best thing for these brews, but I have only done a few side by sides, keg versus bottle and the beers were enjoyable. I have bottled several batches of hazy pales and no one has said they were oxidized, but yes, the keg version is better and a little more golden, but just slightly. It isn't like they are bad as soon as you bottle them. The bottling of NEIPAs issue is understandable due to the oxygen intake, but you can do it and the beers are more than drinkable. I don't call those brews NEIPA's but people who try them do. I use about 5-6g/l in the whirlpool for my hazy pales and 8g/l for the dry hop. I would have only, last 15 or so brews, been focusing on trying to get cheaper hop combos going but sometimes I say forget it and go hard with whatever I want to use, but I do think about it.Ĩg/l in the whirlpool is massive but you will get the juiciness coming through. With a good thought and experience of what they will bring, it would work great. It makes sense to use cheaper hops and save the expensive ones for what you really want, the aroma from the dry hop. I have done batches with Vic secret for example, that I only added that at dry hop due to not wanting any pine just fruit aromas and flavour and used other hops that were more to the character I was after. I use the same hops, sometimes, throughout the boil, whirlpool and dry hop. PS And he said another thing: if as a home brewer you don't have a kegging system, don't bother trying to make NEIPAs. Centennial is pretty cheap at my LHBS, and I like it. The video is a bit dated, and it is possible he isn't doing this anymore, but I am wondering what you all think of this? Personally I have always used the same varieties late in the boil and whirlpool as I do in the dry hop, but this has me thinking. He suggested 8g/L in the whirlpool / hopstand.I suppose the same principle applies for other types of IPAs. He didn't go into his reasons but I assume it is because most hop compounds are greatly reduced (or even eliminated) by fermentation, so you want to use something potent and cheap, in large doses. On the topic of whirlpool additions he said something that caught my attention: use any cheap, characterful hop you have (he likes Columbus and Simcoe) and save your expensive hops for the dry hop.